Making a Toile

Eventually the lovely notebook
found a good use

Apart from being a rather complex decorating pattern on cloth, a toile is a test garment used to create a cut pattern to suit a person's shape. According to Roger, our couture teacher, one doesn't need a dummy if one has a pattern made from a toile, as a dummy is symmetric while people usually aren't. So a cloth tailored to the body will do the trick.

To start us off he had standard size cut patterns in all sizes from which we had to choose ours. That was interesting! Obviously one has to measure hips, waist, and bust to then select the size that is the closest match towards the bigger end - which means size 20 (European 46) for me. How unflattering!

Bravely I copied the massive thing, luckily it comes in four parts so the finals size doesn't instantly become obvious, and then happily made my way home after the first lesson.

For lesson number two some medium calico was required, thus some shopping was in order. The only haberdashery shop I know, however had run out of it except for a tiny piece. Never mind, I got it anyway and invested in a new measuring tape - imperial and metric in one go - and a thimble.

See, that's my fly in the ointment of needlecraft indulgence: I don't have a clue oft the terminology. I learned those things some 40 years back in Germany. I however found that even things like the humble thimble have elaborate Wikipedia pages. What would we do without the Internet?

Moving on: On inspection of my pathetic piece of calico, dear and very patient Roger suggested to do a short skirt... I took it as a reference to the prominent hip area of mine which sort of covers everything that might need measuring below of it.

Second lesson over with the cut pattern transferred to the calico, and having received instructions on how to tack it together, home I went. Today now was the day to take the first needle action. As advised I was as thorough as possible - although it will all be taken apart after having nipped and tucked it to shape - and nevertheless some seams didn't quite line up... oh well. The brain has not become any faster over the years and neither have the fingers. The trouble always starts with remembering which bit goes inwards and what is the difference between left and right.

... a bit frazzled
yet happy

In the end however it sort of looks what it is supposed to look like: A potato sack!

I am utterly keen to see how to make this into the pattern that will make me look gorgeous. Additionally I can't wait to start on my first real piece. Teachers orders are 'a simple pencil skirt'. I look frumpy in pencil skirts. Again, I am keen to see what will be suggested to remedy that. I however need a skirt for my corsets and anything I produce will be better than the stuff that I get from the rail. I guess this is calling for another shopping trip - this time for the perfect fabric.

Will keep you posted!